How to fix or remake old low-quality permanent makeup

Today we will talk on a topic that interests both beginners and practicing masters – how to correct old makeup with significant flaws. We already have an article with a step-by-step explanation of the makeup removing process, but today we’ll talk more about the rules for working with color and pigments.

In fact, the overlapping of the low quality permanent makeup is akin to the work of a jeweler. There are so many subtleties and secrets in it that it is almost impossible to master them to a beginner. We have an online course on removing permanent makeup, but hear we discuss basic laws of correction work that you need to know.

I recommend to my students do not use:

1. Pigments with a cold color base for eyebrows with a cold tone of the skin without the addition of a pigment that has a warm shade.
2. Eyebrows pigments with a warm base for a warm skin tone.
3. Black and white pigments, until you will have a lot of experience.
4. Eyebrows pigments with a brown-red base.
5. Inorganic red pigment for lips in its pure form.
6. Organic red lips pigment with a blue base in its pure form.
7. Inorganic yellow pigment to create a warmer formula, because it adds cold shade.
8. Eyelids organic pigments and pigments with a high alcohol content.
9. Be careful when using inorganic pigments for lip shading.
10. In order to avoid discoloration, never use pure beige and brown pigments for the lips.

And now I want to answer questions about correcting permanent makeup

• “What color of pigment do you use to cover the blue eyebrows?”

To overlap the blue color I use pigments with red-orange shades.

• “Why the pigment is quite dense on the skin near the old permanent makeup, but on overlapping area it’s much brighter?”

As a rule, the skin area below the old tattoo is so densely filled with pigment, that there is simply less place for additional shades to take root. I recommend to carry out at least one procedure of laser removal, and only then inject a “fresh” pigment.

• “What should I do with the eyebrow tail, if the client wants to get a new form?”

If the tail of the eyebrow is pale, you can use camouflage pigments. If it is more saturated, only laser removal will work. You can combine both procedures – gradually remove the old tail, and create a new form.

• “I’ve used expensive pigments for permanent makeup correction, but they quickly disappeared, and the old tattoo remained. The client is not satisfied”

Old tattoo are often done with an old fashioned water-alcohol tattoo pigments. They are placed tightly, rigidly, deeply and for a long time. Therefore, the overlap by the new pigment works more short-term and the client should make the correction more often. If the old pigment does not suit at all, you need to make it half-blurred by laser or CRC remover and only then overlap.

• “What should I do to make purple eyebrows more natural”

According to the laws of colors, to overlap purple color you should use pigments with an orange tint.

To become a true professional, it is important to continue development, study, attend master classes and constantly improve in meeting the needs of your clients!

Sincerely, Victoriya Rudko.

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